Need Advice: Socializing Adult Dog (long)

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mini

Boxer Booster
Hey I was wondering if anyone has any advice on socializing an adult rescue of mine. Right now she is completely seperated from my other dogs but shows aggression towards them through doors or baby gates. I am keeping her crated next to them during the day and double baby gated them apart when home (I want her to get used to being around them, I guess Im hoping it will help her feel more comfortable when I do finally introduce them). They are splitting their time between me while I am getting her healthy (severely underweight). I dont want to introduce her fully to them both until I get a healthy weight on her, just for her safety, my male is very rambunctious! But she shows lots of aggression when they get too curious and close to the baby gate, she will bark and try to bite them through the gate. I introduced her to my older female and the first thing she did was challenge her, raising her head up and pushing her back and growling. It is CRUCIAL that this dog learns to live with my other two and I dont think she has ever lived with other dogs (the only background I have on her is that she was kept on a chain in a backyard and starved). What would be the best way to acclaimate her to her new family without much incident? I want to set her up for success and I dont want her to feel like she has to defend herself because shes "out numbered"
 

Wubbie

Boxer Booster
Agreed on the behaviourist thing. For example, there's a guy in my neighborhood that does sort of a Ceasar Milan thing, where you can bring your dog over to his "pack" for 60 minutes and work on socialization. I'm sure other cities have similar specialists.
 

DiverDiva

Boxer Insane
There are suggestions in the book "Feeling Outnumbered" by Karen London and Patricia McConnell. There is a relatively new book, "Control Unleashed" by Leslie McDevitt that also has good ideas and exercises, originally written for handlers of dogs training to compete in agility, but many exercises are just good for daily life. I will also mention Patricia McConnell's "The Other End of the Leash", because it had lots of good ideas for living with and training dogs. Don't forget to practice 'nothing in life is free' with her, consistently, so she looks to you as her leader, protector, and source of all that is good (i.e. food, play, love).
 

mini

Boxer Booster
update (long)

There are suggestions in the book "Feeling Outnumbered" by Karen London and Patricia McConnell. There is a relatively new book, "Control Unleashed" by Leslie McDevitt that also has good ideas and exercises, originally written for handlers of dogs training to compete in agility, but many exercises are just good for daily life. I will also mention Patricia McConnell's "The Other End of the Leash", because it had lots of good ideas for living with and training dogs. Don't forget to practice 'nothing in life is free' with her, consistently, so she looks to you as her leader, protector, and source of all that is good (i.e. food, play, love).


Great thank you i will definately check those out!! my husband and I definately feel like she is starting to trust us. After one week of seperation we decided to officially introduce them. We started by leashing her and bringing her to neutral territory (the front yard because our dogs never spend time or exit the front door) and while I held her my husband brought out one of our dogs on a leash, we let them meet and smell each other and then took them both on a short walk. We did that again with the second dog with great success so we decided to bring them all inside together. She was noticably uncomfortable but tolerated all the commotion UNTIL my female propped her front legs on the ottoman next to me and growled at me(well its not really a growl but its not really a bark and she always does it when she needs something, usually food but Im guessing this time it was reassurance that she was still mom's baby!) Well bones didnt like that and lunged at her and we cant decided if she thought she was trying to protect me OR if its just simply the fact that she hasnt been socialized, probably has had little to no exposure to other dogs and just doesnt understand their body langauage and vocalization (dynamite is extremely vocal!, when she wants something she tells you!) So for right now we are taking this slow and keeping them seperated unless my husband and I are both home together and they can be highly supervised because it's easier to stop a potential fight.
 

mini

Boxer Booster
help :(

we contacted an animal behaviorist in our area after we had an incident where bones attacked chopper in the kitchen. she grabbed his leg and wouldnt let go and he needed 2 staples. Well she wouldnt even take our money and she told us that we needed to rehome her to a home where there are no other dogs because she will always be food aggressive. we are torn, we just dont know what would be best for her. should we spend the money trying to rehabilitate her in hopes that she will be able to be controlled around our other dogs and food, or do we rehome her?? Right now we are having to keep them totally seperated and will only let her around the other 2 dogs for small amounts of time and ONLY muzzled, to avoid any injuries to my dogs or myself.
 

Jan

Reasonable Moderator
Staff member
I wouldn't think that a dog should be rehomed because she is food agressive. Food aggression is something that can be worked with, especially with a dog that has been starved. You would certainly need to keep them separated when there was any food around. I would contact another behaviorist for another opinion. You also might want to get the book "Mine" by Jean Donaldson

Good luck!
 

DiverDiva

Boxer Insane
I wouldn't think that a dog should be rehomed because she is food agressive. Food aggression is something that can be worked with, especially with a dog that has been starved. You would certainly need to keep them separated when there was any food around. I would contact another behaviorist for another opinion. You also might want to get the book "Mine" by Jean Donaldson

Good luck!
Also by Jean Donaldson is the book "Fight" which discusses how to improve a dog's social skills.
 

rpmorris

Boxer Pal
When we got our rescue dog "ChucK" we were told the reason the owner couldn't keep him was because of food aggression with his mom's dog, so when we brought him home we put him in a different room to eat. We will gradually have him eat with the others. He's calming down a lot. We had him neutered the day after we got him. We were told it takes about 6 mos.to get most of the testosterone out of his system. It's been about 3 mos. Plus, he had no training that we're aware of so that was a challenge for a dog that's 1.2 years old. So far it hasn't been a problem during feeding time, except the food container is in where he eats and he has already figured out how to open it.

I had my concerns with his aggressions and worried whether it was going to work out but there has been great improvement. I kept reminding myself that he was going through a traumatic experience, moving in with a new family. He is so sweet. In the past 3 months he has improved more than I would have expected.

The best thing that I have learned to contain aggression is to exercise them. Not that I'm consistent with it because we have a very large yard, but they still need to be walked on a leash. Once they are worn out they don't have the energy to be aggressive. Of course, then you have a difficult time trying to get then off the couch.
 

tcarlisle

Super Boxer
Since you don't really know how the dog was raised, treated, or possibly traumatized, this is going to take time. Since she was underweight, it is safe to assume she was starved. It is only logical that if she has been undernourished, she will do anything to get and keep her food.

The first thing I would want to do is make sure it is just food aggression. By this time, it seems you have introduced the dogs. I would not have recommended doing so on leash -- that makes the dog feel constrained and unable to use flight instinct, and more likely to use fight instinct if she feels threatened. But apparently that didn't happen, so good -- probably not leash aggressive.

How about territorial? If she is laying in an area and another dog approaches, does she do anything aggressive to let the other dog know not to come into her space?

How about toys? Is she possessive and aggressive with toys?

Any other circumstances where you have spotted aggressive behavior other than food?

What was happening in the kitchen? Were they eating? Was their food being prepared? Was human food being prepared? Exactly what were the circumstances before the incident?

What are the sexes of all the dogs, and are they all neutered/spayed?

If they were feeding, and another dog tried to take food from her bowl, well, that is actually rude, and it is dominant behavior. Her response was (to us) inappropriate, but then again these dogs are wild animals so in that sense her response was probably somewhat natural.

If you have not seen any other signs of aggression, except with food, I would say work on it. But if you have seen other signs, like territorial aggression, aggression over toys, aggression when the other dogs "sniff her out", etc. then it might be best if the dog is rehomed to a home without dogs and also without children -- kids will walk up to a dog and steal toys, and even walk up and put their hand in their food bowl. That would be disastrous

I would say that in all honesty, the situation probably is not good. Being protective of food and using aggression is somewhat normal behavior for a wild animal. So is eliminating in the house. These two things may not seem to be closely related, but they really are by virtue of being natural behaviors. We all go through the house training process, and most are able to complete that training to a very high degree and can count on their dogs not eliminating in the house. But the chance is always there that the dog might regress, but the worst case is that you have to clean up a mess.

On the other hand, you can try to train the rescue dog not to be aggressive over food, and with time and patience you can do so. However, there is also always that possibility that the dog will regress, and the result could be very disasterous.

Eliminating behavior is one thing, but this really gets to the core of the dog's temperament, and I doubt you will ever be able to completely trust a dog with an aggressive temperament.

Your best case scenario is to learn to manage it, and understand that managing it is probably all you can do and carries risk.

A behaviorist that works with your dog on this issue also assumes risk, because if your dog ever reverts and injures a dog, or worse a person, then the behaviorist may have some liability
 
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