Process of Teaching a "Trick"

[Little Turk]

When teaching your dog tricks in what order do you do the audible/visual signal and then the physical movement + treat?

Up to this point I've taught my dog to shake, high five, lay down, crawl, sit, etc...

My method has always been this, separately:

1. Say the command and make the motion with my hands for the trick I'm teaching

2. Physically make him do it (i.e. - push his butt down to make him sit, take his paws and lay him down from a sit, etc...)

3. Upon completion give him a treat saying good X (name of trick)


However, I think I've read a few people on here actually saying the trick as they make the dog do the trick. For example saying rollover as you roll the dog over, instead of saying rollover first and then physically rolling them over. But this would make it hard to do the hand signal for the trick, which my dog seems to respond to better than the audible cues.


Any tips on the order of command audible/visual + physical guidance + treating? Input or experiences much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

p.s. - feel free to add any tricks that you've taught your dog in addition to the basic sit, lay down, etc... Always looking for new interesting tricks to motivate my doggie

 

[kayboxer]

What I have done is do the verbal/hand signal at the same time, then physically (depending on what it is) help them do it, then treating. It seems to have worked for me so far! I also am using the clicker with Buster. I learned in puppy kindergarden with Roxy though that physically pushing their butt down can be dangerous if you do it too hard. You can damage the hips, do I am always careful on what tricks I help them do physically. Good luck!

 

[gmacleod]

I guess it might depend on the trick in question - but I don't physically put the dog in position at all. I find they learn far faster and better if they're encouraged/manipulated into making the motion all by themselves. The reward then comes immediately the dog does part or all (depending on the complexity and stage of training) of the hoped-for manoeuvre.

 

[Biff]

I never forced mine into any position.

To get them in the "down" position, I sat on the floor, one leg straight out (or under, whichever is comfiest) and the other bent at the knee to make a tunnel. With a treat in my hand, I guided them through the "tunnel" to get to it, and hey presto - they are in the "down" position. With Biff, I kept saying the word "down", and Buttons learned by the sweeping action of my hand and arm.

Repeat a few times, and then take away the "tunnel".

Easy peasy

 

[Little Turk]

I understand that stuff, down a dog will easily be able to figure out. But when it comes to roll over you're gonna be investing some serious amounts of time in visual charades trying to get your dog to roll over on his own. Thats where I would think physically assisting them is key. As far physically making him do the trick its minimal physical encouragement,not forcing him in a way that would hurt him, but I've heard that about not pushing down to make him sit that Kay said before. Never had that problem since my boxer sits every other second when he looks at something.

 

[gmacleod]

But when it comes to roll over you're gonna be investing some serious amounts of time in visual charades trying to get your dog to roll over on his own.

You think? LOL - as I recall, it took Henri about 2 minutes (and is probably the trick he learnt both fastest and best). Manoeuvres like that are generally very easy to teach with treats or other items the dog will follow.

 

[TwoDogs]

I would teach it with luring. Remember the saying "Where the head goes, the body follows"? That's what your going to make use of here. You can train to roll left or right using the same visual cue/gesture, just a different hand. I'll use rolling to the dog's left (your right as you look at him) as an example. Get a tasty treat and put your dog in a down in front of you. Hold the treat in your left hand directly in front of and level with the dogs nose. Move your hand clockwise in a circle around the dogs head and up over his shoulder. The dog's head will follow your hand until the point that he can't turn his head anymore. Chances are he will snap his head around to the other side. Don't let him grab the treat. You have just found the furthest point he can reach before he must start to roll. Do the exercise again but deliver your treat just before he snaps around. Do it again but move your hand an inch further. Only deliver the treat if he reaches further around--never if he snaps the other way. Eventually, the only way he will be able to continue to follow your hand (and get the treat) will be to start to roll. Treat for any rolling no matter how slight. Gradually ask for more rolling by continuing to move your hand farther and farther around his head. With any luck your dog will realize that the only way to get the treat is to follow it all the way around and roll over. It may take time and a couple of sessions, but he will figure it out. If he tries to pop up and turn around to get the treat, just place your other hand on his shoulders while you are luring him to prevent him from rising. Don't push and resist the urge to use that hand to manuever him into the roll.

You can also teach it using hand targeting if your dog is already familiar with targeting your hand with his nose.

 

[DiverDiva]

I guess it might depend on the trick in question - but I don't physically put the dog in position at all. I find they learn far faster and better if they're encouraged/manipulated into making the motion all by themselves. The reward then comes immediately the dog does part or all (depending on the complexity and stage of training) of the hoped-for manoeuvre.

This is the policy at my training club, too.

This is what is taught there:
Lure the behavior with a treat.
After you can reliably get the behavior, fade the lure motion into a hand signal, still rewarding the behavior.
After the dog responds to the hand signal, "name" the behavior, this is the verbal command, then follow a moment later with the hand signal.
The dog will begin to anticipate that the hand signal will follow the verbal command, this is when you fade and drop the hand signal.
You don't "name" the behavior until you know the dog will offer the behavior, otherwise the command could come to mean "stand there and do nothing" instead of down, roll over or whatever.

 

[SILLY6PAK]

I have taught my dogs to target my hand. That has made teaching tricks fast. Piper and MIA have quite a few party tricks to their credit. The Yorkist doesn't even sit on command. Boxers really are smart.

 

[Addie Girl]

oh memories. Addie does well with verbal/hand signal at the same time.
Although, she never learned how to roll all the way over, she will only roll half way onto her back and then stare at you, like she is afraid to keep going.
Be careful not get into a routine of tricks . When Addie learned sit/lay down/rollover, she would see a treat in my hand and just SIT-LAY DOWN-ROLLOVER and then lay on her back and stare at me, expecting a treat, although I asked her to do nothing . That became the verbal signal "perform" hehe.