Please help!

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kodismom

Boxer Pal
I adopted Kodi at 3 yrs from a family that had to move quickly. I had never had a boxer but had loved the breed for a long time. Kodi was raised with a cat and a small child and was great with both. The problem arose after a few weeks being with us.

We have a chihuahua also and Kodi is fine with him, doesn't really pay much attention really. The issue is that I can't take Kodi for walks or anywhere there are other dogs. She goes completely nuts and tries to completely dominate any other dog in the vicinity. Doesn't matter how much larger the dog is, she thinks she is top dog.

I have taken her to numerous dog trainers and worked with her on my own to ensure she gets fed after the chihuahua and I make her wait till all humans enter doors first, etc. She is soooo sweet with people and loves babies so much she shivers if she can't be next to them. She has never, ever tried to be aggresive with me or my husband. I have tried a few exercises to get her to focus on me, like making her look at me before she gets a treat etc. But when we are outside and she sees a dog, I am unable to break her focus. My husband has to pick her up and carry her away from the other dog!!!

If anyone has had this problem or has some advice I would sincerely appreciate it. I love Kodi and will never get rid of her but I feel bad that she isn't able to get out more because of her issues.

Thanks,

Kodi's mom :)
 

BeckyNC

Boxer Insane
Kodi's Mom,

Does Kodi try to attack the other dogs when she encounters them or does she just get insanely excited and pull like crazy? How does she try to dominate the other dog? Is she trying to play like a Boxer by jumping on top of the dog? The reason I ask is Tae gets very excited and tries to rush up to other dogs and initiate Boxer play. She's not the best leash walker and I've really worked with her to improve that. I haven't had much success. I'm about to order a sensation harness, which I hope will curb her desire to pull.

When we take a walk and Tae sees another dog, she gets really excited and goes nuts. She gets totally focused on that dog and acts as if she's on a mission to meet it. The behaviorist I consulted with suggested I put Tae in a sit-stay the second I see the other dog. If I way too long, she's already ultra focused. I tell her to sit and she usually does. Sometimes I must repeat her name a couple times before she sits. When she sits, she's usually quite focused on the other dog already. I give her a yummy treat, which she takes without removing her eyes from the approaching dog. When the other dog gets up close to us, the behaviorist suggested I tell her "OK," so she can meet the dog as a reward. Sometimes she is so focused she does not hear my OK and just continues to sit there! I'm not sure if this addressed your problem or not, but thought I'd share my experience.

Good luck!
 

kodismom

Boxer Pal
Thanks for the suggestions Dan & Becky!!

Becky NC - I had to laugh at your response, I can totally visualize the scenario! Kodi is definitely wanting to dominate, not play. She gets nose to nose with the other dog and tries first to stare the dog down. Then after about 3-4 seconds, she leaps on the dog and attempts to push him/her down flat on the ground and she stand on them like Queen of the mountain! She doesn't bite but just wants to be dominant. There was one incident where she did this to a male lab and the lab fought back - major bloodshed. I am afraid Kodi will die fighting - the dog has no fear.. I finally had to resort to an electric shock collor - which I HATE but I can't have her tackling other dogs like this. It scares the other owners and who knows if one of them might be lawsuit happy. We keep the level on low and all it takes is one zap and she doesn't even flinch. She just comes back to us and acts like nothing happened at all. So - I am still looking for answers that don't involve violence etc. Thanks so much for taking the time to respond!
 

Krikkit

Boxer Insane
kodismom said:
I am afraid Kodi will die fighting - the dog has no fear.. I finally had to resort to an electric shock collor - which I HATE but I can't have her tackling other dogs like this. It scares the other owners and who knows if one of them might be lawsuit happy. We keep the level on low and all it takes is one zap and she doesn't even flinch. She just comes back to us and acts like nothing happened at all. So - I am still looking for answers that don't involve violence etc.

I am so pleased you are looking for alternatives! What you have resorted to is most likely making matters far worse for Kodi. Bottom line - do not treat aggression with aggression.

Have you had a full vet check done (including blood tests, urine tests etc). Some medical conditions, being in pain etc, can make a dog reactive. It's best to rule out medical problems - make sure you get a thyroid check done.

What equipment is she wearing? I'd really recommend a Head Halter - control the head and you get much better control of the dog. See the article Boxers and Head Halters and also see the Head Halter thread. Gentle Leaders seem to fit a Boxer better than most, and if you want to ship one in, the Black Dog brand is outstanding. There have been hundreds of threads on the forums about leash aggression so a search should bring up heaps of tips.

Along with the book Dan mentioned the following resources are also outstanding to help you understand what is happening and how to set about some behavioural training / management.

Booklet & Video Set: On Talking Terms with Dogs - Canine Calming Signals
Book: Canine Aggression Workbook by James O'Heare
Book: Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson

The links are to Dogwise but these resources are available at most online bookstores, some vets, and some normal bookstores.

I'd really recommend that you consult with a behaviourist who uses positive training methods. Here are some resources that should help you find someone:
Directory of Certified Applied Animal Behaviourists
List of Behaviourists & Behavioural Consultants

What can you do now until you find help? Simply avoid walking Kodi at times when you are likely to come accross a lot of dogs. A dog acting like Kodi is not a happy dog - her stress levels are probably way through the roof. When a dog gets stressed it takes several days for their stress levels (actual physical changes) to return to a normal level. If a dog does not get an opportunity to calm down the stress builds and builds and you have far less of a chance of being able to help. It is not good for them to be stressed all the time (just like people - it will lead to physical or mental illness).

Take a look at the thread on Aggression Issues and follow the links to the articles for more insight into this type of thing.

Below is another article that seems to be offline at the moment:
Classical Conditioning for Aggression

Does your dog bark aggressively at other dogs? At kids? At the mailman? Do you want to get him to stop?? Of course you do - who wouldn't? The problem with most training methods for these problems is that the dog never really stops wanting to be aggressive in those situations, he just learns that he had better not or else. In which case, he can never really be trusted not to revert to that behavior again - especially if the owner isn't around. How would you like, instead, to change the dog's entire outlook? Get him to no longer even want to act aggressively? This can be done with a little time & patience on your part.

What I am going to try to explain is Classical Conditioning. Remember Pavlov & his drooling dogs? Same concept.

Let's use, as an example, a 3 year old mixed breed dog who goes ballistic whenever he sees other dogs. A dog that is well-socialized & trained from puppyhood should never become like this, but hindsight is always 20/20 (and anyway, sometimes people rescue adult dogs & can't be blamed for their childhood at all). Let's call the dog Stormy and the owner John, and say that John rescued Stormy from a shelter recently.

I would advise John to realize from the outset that this process can be a slow one - each dog will progress at his/her own rate & he had better be willing to assume Stormy will take awhile. Now, let's try to understand what is going on in Stormy's little doggy mind when he sees another dog. We don't know his past so don't know what, if any, traumatic experiences he might have had as a youngster. Apparently now, however, Stormy views other dogs as something horrible - something to get very upset about. Maybe his previous owners misunderstood his natural puppy exuberance of leaping & barking with aggression & felt they should reprimand him severely for it. So here's Stormy as a young dog: he sees another dog, gets all excited, and gets yelled at & possibly hit. It won't take too long before Stormy sees another dog and now, instead of thinking "What fun! Let's play!" he thinks, "Hey! There's another dog! Bad things happen to me every time I see one of those! I HATE them! Grrrrr bark bark grrrrrr." Can you blame him?

So, what we need to do is change his view of other dogs back to what it originally was. We want Stormy to see another dog and think, "Wow! Another dog! Great! Wonderful things happen to me when I see those! Yay!"
Are you convinced? Great - let's get down to the nitty gritty on how to accomplish this. Once you get the concept, you can apply this to many other problems as well!

I would advise John to get a huge bunch of really super tasty treats. "Human food" is best - usually tastier & healthier than "dog food." Cut-up pieces of hot dog, cheese, chicken, steak, etc., all work very well. John wants a treat that is much better than what Stormy usually gets. Before getting out & finding other dogs, John will need to do some work at home. He & Stormy need to play the Name Game.

The Name Game: Say your dog's name. When he looks at you - toss or give him a treat and praise him. If saying his name doesn't get him to look at you you may wave at him or clap (or whatever) so he looks at you. (Then give the treat). Do this a zillion times. Do it until every time you say your dog's name he stops whatever he is doing & looks at you - knowing that he is about to get a wonderful treat! Start at first without other distractions & then build normal household distractions in as he gets better at it. There is NO CORRECTION if he ever doesn't look up at you - just no treat. You can turn away & say, "Oh! Too bad." Make it sound like he really missed out on something good. Then say his name again & hopefully you will get the desired response & will be able to give him the treat & praise. When he is 100% in looking at you then proceed outside.

Have your dog on leash and have a hefty supply of the treats. Try really really hard not to come across the Bad Thing (whatever it is that sets your dog off - in Stormy's case other dogs). Your dog isn't ready for that yet. Continue to play the Name Game, only now using natural outdoor distractions like cars, kids on bikes, other people out walking, etc.

When your dog is doing fabulously at this (which shouldn't take too long ... dogs can be quite clever when food is involved!) the he is ready to face The Bad Thing.

Back to Stormy & John. John has practiced the Name Game religiously & feels Stormy is ready to face his Bad Thing - other dogs. So, with Stormy leashed & a big bag of the tastiest treats imaginable, they head out for the local park. Here is where I would advise John to take a big breath & swear to himself that he won't rush things! Stormy is NOT ready to join the doggie play group just yet.

Instead, John should walk Stormy far away from other dogs. Play a few rounds of the Name Game to warm him up. Then, allow Stormy to get a glimpse of another dog. John should instantly call "Stormy!" and hopefully all of that Name Game training (oops! and Stormy thought that was just a game!) will come through and Stormy will look away from the other dog and up at John - expecting a treat. If he does - WOW! John should give him a bunch of treats - a veritable jack-pot! John should, of course, respond with tons of verbal praise & petting, too! When doing this, John needs to work hard on his timing. He wants to say Stormy's name before Stormy has started to growl, etc., at the other dog. If he is too late, Stormy might be too intent on the other dog to respond to his name. In that case, just sigh & leave.

Play the Name Game a few more times with no distractions then try again with another dog - being faster to say Stormy's name. REMEMBER - if this is to work, there must be NO punishment for the growling! We want Stormy to like other dogs.

When John gets the timing down he should look for as many opportunities of "dog sightings" from a distance as possible to reinforce this new & wonderful behavior of Stormy's. When Stormy consistently responds to his name John should start to get closer & closer to other dogs as they continue playing the game...being careful not to progress too quickly.

SETBACKS. They occur, so John shouldn't get too bummed out when they do. Setbacks (where Stormy is too distracted to respond to his name) are clear signals that John has progressed too quickly or the treat & praise weren't good enough. Or both. Either way - the cure is just to go back a few steps & proceed more slowly this time.

With slow, consistent work, Stormy's whole outlook on other dogs should change. After all....now whenever he sees other dogs he gets tons of happy praise & treats! Other dogs are GOOD! John will know Stormy is ready to try closer interaction with other dogs when he sees another dog....and immediately looks up at John, expecting his treat!
Copyright: Mary Woodward
http://members.aol.com/RottnMary/Classical.html
 

ladyluck_t

Boxer Insane
i dont have this particular problem with my katie, but that article Krikkit posted is amazing. very clear, concise and helpful. it says what many whole books allude to. i have been doing something similar for when someone knocks at my door. now i just need to do a little more polish on my technique. Thanks Krikkit!

And good luck with your girl Kodi!

Carolyn
 
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