help at the end of my rope with him

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doc04

Boxer Buddy
hi well spike is 13 weeks now he is a good dog most of the time but he attacks me and my famly for no reason we could play with him narly all the time without a bit but then there is when he bites and it is sore he has brought blood out of me many of times and ok this is like what happens iam trying to put his collor and lead but he turns nasty and bites me when i tell him no he still does it now i know he knows what no means but he barks and growls and does the woo woo when i tell him when he is biteing at me now i have to get this promble sorted out b/c my mum has had enoth of it and she has give me 2 weeks to sort it out or she is giveing him a way now i dont want this to happen as i love him to peices please help me on how to correct this promble i show him iam leader of the pack by walking though the door first and makeing him sit when giveing him his food after we eat and takeing the food away form him for 5 seconds and then giveing it back to him
please help me on how to fix this
thank you
 

ricos_mama

Boxer Booster
I think that this problem is going to take longer than 2 weeks to fix. when my pup used to do this I would tellhim "no biting" and show him that I was upset, i think that dogs just want to please you, also he may still be teething and you might want to try to give him something that will ease that pain, frozen carrots work good.
 

VTbxrFan

Boxer Insane
Try a search for "biting" for some advice. Basically your puppy is just acting like a puppy. Please try to explain that to your mother. Also, sign up for a training class. That's really important!
 

JSGIBBY5

Boxer Pal
My dog used to act the same way. Boxers can get lonely really quick and they have a lot of energy. I got mine used to playing every morning before I left for work and if he bit me he would go in his crate early and not get to play. A sharp "NO!" will startle him and now he will go in his crate if he has done something wrong on his own and he is now 2 years old. He hasn't play bit anyway since he way a puppy. That worked well for us and it put us in the role of alpha dog. You might give it a try.
 

conn

Super Boxer
also, you may want to try to re-direct the biting. if he bites you tell him no and then throw him a toy or just play with a toy so he is biting that instead of you. Time and consistancey are the key...and remember a tired dog is a good dog so run the little guy around and tire him out...i imagine you will see a big difference in behavior...
also, the book the dog listener has some good suggestions on how to show your dog you are the leader...
 
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KELLY W

Super Boxer
He is still a puppy!! Puppies bite and think everything is a game. It is a game to him for you to try to put his collar on. You can do a search on here for biting and will find alot of advice. The best advice though is patience. Tell your Mom to be patient, he is just a pup and will learn as he gets older.
 

frankied

Boxer Insane
I have to agree with everyone else as he is just a baby. We taught our dogs not to bite by reprimanding them and then putting a toy in their mouth instead. It worked great and neither of them would ever bite anyone. He will eventually grow out of it. Just a puppy being a puppy :)
 

BoxerMom13

Boxer Buddy
I strongly discourage you getting rid of him - you need to put in the time it takes to train a puppy. I feel that a puppy or dog is not something that you give back if things dont go your way right away. You need to put time and effort into teaching him right from wrong. And although he is a puppy, he IS smart, and now is the best time to teach him as he is most impressionable. Tell him to sit/stay for a treat to put his collar on, and unless he sits still, he doesnt get it. I guarantee you he will catch on VERY FAST. Dogs love treats and will do just about anything to get one, even if it means he doesnt wrestle with you to get his collar on....

Also, try ignoring him. You are feeding into his excitement. Show him that his behavior is not going to get him any sort of attention, good or bad..... and again, he is a puppy and puppys do get rambunctious, please remember that and tell your mom to get involved in training him too, otherwise he will behave for you and not for her......
 

Krikkit

Boxer Insane
Good responses from everyone :) The below is from another thread - it may help you understand just WHY puppies bite:
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It's perfectly normal :) In time you will feel less like a human pin cushion. Below are a couple of articles that help explain why pups come hardwired to bite, mouth and chew (it's the pups who don't do this who are more of a worry, harder to teach them bite inhibition).

Extract from the book "Culture Clash " by Jean Donaldson

"Dogs are animals who are able to kill, tear apart carcasses and crack bone with their jaws. They are also highly social. IF they are to live among others with this kind of weaponry as standard issue, they need some means of preventing serious injury to each other during altercations. This is where ritualization comes in. A key ingredient to ritualized aggression is bite inhibition. Dogs are not born with soft mouths, but they are wired up to easily acquire the ability to bite softly, if conditions are right. The right conditions means: plenty of feedback about bite strength. To ensure that puppies get plenty of feedback about bite strength, nature has made puppies into veritable biting machines with needle-like teeth. Normal puppies can and should play-bite continually in social interactions. Play is an extremely interesting behavior. In encompasses rehearsal, bonding, opportunities for feedback and sheer fun. Of high concern to dog owners is the fact that puppies are removed from their litters early in life and often placed in a relative social vacuum. This is greatly compounded if the puppy is forbidden from play-biting its owners.

Supressing puppy biting too early means the puppy doesn't get the repeated doses of feedback on his jaw strength; the puppy grows up with a hard mouth. This is a serious squandering of a critical line of defense against dog bites.

So, smart puppy owners allow some puppy biting in order to give the puppy information on his own strength. Puppy biting is such a valuable thing, in fact, that puppies who do not play bite should be actively encouraged to do so in order to develop a soft mouth. Start off by targeting harder bites. Let the puppy chomp away on your hands, and monitor the level of pressure. Although puppy teeth are sharp, puppy jaws are undeveloped, so this will not be unbearable. As soon as the puppy bears down a little harder, screech "OUCH!" as though it hurt much more than it did, look at the puppy like he's a little ax-murderer and leve the room for a minute or two. This time-out is a clear refusal to play consequence with the "OUCH!" as the condititoned stimulus. Many puppies also have an innate understanding of the screech, making the system work even better. After the minute or two has passed, return and resume play. He may be more prudent temporarily and he may not. Be prepared to repeat this procedure over and over, so the trend emerges. Puppy learns that if puppy bites too hard, puppy plays by himself."

Dunbar also offers some good thoughts on this:

Puppy Biting - More Than Bad Manners
by Ian Dunbar PhD, MSVC


Puppies bite and thank goodness they do! Puppy biting is essential for your puppy to develop a soft mouth. Puppy biting seldom causes appreciable harm, but many bites are painful and elicit reaction. The pup learns, its jaws can hurt and therefore, begins to inhibit the force of its biting before it acquires the formidable teeth and strong jaws of an adolescent.

Completely curtailing puppy biting may offer immediate relief, but the puppy will not have sufficient opportunity to learn that its jaws may inflict pain. Consequently, if ever provoked as an adult, the resultant bite is likely to be a hard one, Certainly puppy biting must be controlled but only in a progressive and systematic manner, whereby the pup is first taught to inhibit the force of its bites, before puppy biting is forbidden altogether. Once the puppy develops a soft mouth, there is plenty of time to inhibit the frequency of its now gentler mouthing.

It is not necessary to hurt, frighten, or punish the pup to teach it biting hurts. A simple "Ouch!" is sufficient. If your pup acknowledges the 'ouch' and desists, praise and resume playing, but in a calmer fashion. If your pup ignores the 'ouch', emphasize "OUCH!!" and leave the room. Your puppy has lost its playmate. Return after one or two minutes time-out and make up by having your puppy come, sit and calm down before resuming play.

Once your pup's biting no longer hurts, still pretend it does. Greet harder nips with a yelp of pseudo-pain. Your puppy will soon to get the idea, "Whooahh! These humans are super-sensitive. I'll have to be much more gentle." The pressure of your puppy's bites will progressively decrease until biting becomes mouthing, or slobbering.
NEVER allow your puppy to mouth human hair or clothing. Hair and clothing can feel neither pressure nor pain. Consequently, allowing a pup to mouth hair, scarves, shoe laces, or gloved hands etc., inadvertently trains the pup to bite harder, extremely dose to human flesh!

Once your pup exerts no pressure whatsoever when mouthing, then and only then, teach the pup to reduce the frequency of mouthing. Teach the meaning of "Off" by hand feeding kibble (see the SIRIUS Puppy Training video), so your pup may learn gentle mouthing is OK, but it must stop the instant you say "Off" At this stage, your puppy should never be allowed to initiate mouthing (unless requested to do so). Please refer to our Preventing Aggression booklet for a detailed description of the essential rules for bite inhibition exercises such as play-fighting and tug o'war.

By way of encouragement though, mouthing-maniac puppies generally develop exceedingly gentle jaws as adults, since their many painful bites have elicited ample appropriate feedback. On the other hand, puppies which seldom play and roughhouse with other dogs, puppies which seldom bite their owners (e.g., shy, or fearful pups), and/or breeds which have been bred to have soft mouths, may not receive sufficient feedback concerning the power of their jaws. This is the major reason puppy class instructors go to great lengths to encourage shy and standoffish dogs to play in class. Should a dog ever bite as an adult, both the prognosis for rehabilitation and the fate of the dog are almost always decided by the severity of the injury, which is predetermined by the level of bite inhibition the dog learned during puppy hood. The most important survival lesson for a puppy to learn is: Bites cause pain ! And of course, the pup can only learn this lesson, if it bites, and if the bitee gives appropriate feedback.

Another article of interest that offers another view on coping with puppy biting:
Insights Into Puppy Mouthing

All the best :)

Sharon
 

doc04

Boxer Buddy
thanks for all your help

thank you for all your help you have given me so quick i have had a talk with my mom and i made her undersdand i have tought him sit, down, stay, and paw iam takeing him to dog traning class on wensday i have been last wensday but we had to leave the dogs home i phoned the girl who teches them and she said nip his ear or gently bite him on the end of his ear she said this is what his litter mates would do if he was biteing to hard does any one know if this is true i have given frozen carrots to chew on and he loves they
thank you
me and spike
 
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